Used Super Asia heaters & geysers in Islamabad & Rawalpindi
Is a used Super Asia heaters & geyser worth buying?
Super Asia is a Gujranwala white-goods manufacturer known first for washing machines and spin dryers; water heating is a side line, and that shapes the second-hand story. The electrical and gas working parts inside are generic and easy to get, but the model-specific mouldings — knobs, fascia, terminal cover, body panels — are not stocked the way the parts for its core products are.
Made or assembled in Pakistan
Spares are widely stocked locally and most technicians in the twin cities have worked on these, so common faults are usually economic to repair.
Super Asia is made in Pakistan and the working parts — elements, thermostats, burners, pilot assemblies — are ordinary hardware-market items in both cities, fitted by any plumber or electrician. Fascias, knobs, covers and body panels for an older geyser are the awkward ones, because the dealer network is geared to the brand's washing machines.
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Checking a used Super Asia heaters & geyser
These are specific to Super Asia. The general heaters & geysers checks apply too and are on the heaters & geysers page.
Count the mouldings
Go round the unit for the knob, the thermostat cover, the terminal cover and the body panels. These are the model-specific parts on a side line, and a dealer who turns over washing-machine spares daily may have none of them for a geyser.
Match element to capacity
On an electric model the plate carries both the tank capacity and the element rating. A large tank behind a small element reheats slowly by design, and sound geysers get sold on for exactly that reason rather than for any fault.
Time it from cold
Fill it, switch on from cold and time the rise against the element rating on the plate. A rise much slower than the rating suggests points to scale on the element or an element that has partly failed rather than to the thermostat.
Earth at the terminal block
An immersion element sits in the water, so the earth is what stands between a pinhole in the sheath and the tap. Look for an earth conductor actually landed on the terminal block, and for terminals under the cover that are clean rather than heat-darkened.
What Super Asia heaters & geysers are worth
- The working parts are generic, so ordinary faults are cheap to put right; it is the model-specific mouldings that decide whether an older unit can be made complete again.
- A scaled element shows as slow reheating rather than as no hot water, which is why a geyser that heats eventually can still grade below one that heats to its rating.
- Heat-darkened terminals under the cover cut value sharply, because on a load that runs for hours that is a connection failing rather than cosmetic wear.
Model lines you will see second-hand
- Electric storage geysers
- Gas storage geysers
General heaters & geysers checks
These apply whatever the badge on the front says — the heaters & geysers page covers them in full.
Look at the flame
Light a gas geyser or room heater and watch the burner for a full minute. Steady blue cones with clean edges are right. Yellow, lazy or lifting flames, or black soot on the burner shield and the ceramic plaques, mean incomplete combustion from blocked jets or a wrong air mix — a servicing job at best and a safety matter at worst.
Drain water from the base
Open the drain valve at the bottom of a storage geyser and catch a jugful. Clear water is fine. Brown water, rust flakes or grit means the inner tank is corroding from the inside, and once a tank has begun to perforate no patch holds for long. Water that no longer stays hot as long as it used to points the same way, because sediment has filled the tank floor.
Check the flue and diverter
On a gas geyser, look where the flue pipe meets the hood. Rust flaking off the collar, or soot smudged around the draught diverter and on the wall above it, says exhaust has been spilling into the room instead of going up the pipe. That is a fitting fault rather than a machine fault, but it tells you how the unit has been run.
Watch the pilot after lighting
Hold the control knob in, light the pilot, then release it. A pilot that dies every time usually means a tired thermocouple or a dirty pilot jet, both inexpensive. Confirm which it is before agreeing anything, because on some models the same symptom comes from a failing gas valve, which is a different repair altogether.
Check the radiator seams
On an oil-filled radiator, warm it through, then run a hand along the fin seams and the bottom edge, looking for weeping oil or a greasy film that has trapped dust. These are filled and sealed at the factory: a leaking one cannot sensibly be topped up, and it will smoke off the element as the level drops.
Check the element and earth
An electric geyser that takes far longer than it should to heat normally has an element buried in scale, which is common with the hard water here. Look at the plug top and cord for melting at the pins, confirm the appliance has a proper earth, and on a fan or halogen heater make sure the guard and the tip-over switch both work.
Super Asia heaters & geysers — questions
What is hard to find for a used Super Asia geyser?
How do I test a used Super Asia electric geyser?
Other heaters & geysers brands
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