Used Metro bikes, scooters & e-bikes in Islamabad & Rawalpindi
Is a used Metro bikes, scooters & e-bike worth buying?
Metro now sells two unrelated things under one badge: the MR 70, a 72cc commuter of the familiar pattern, and a range of electric scooters headed by the Miku Super. Mechanically the MR 70 holds no surprises, so the Metro-specific risks are the parts that are Metro's own — and on an electric one, the battery pack is the whole purchase.
Made or assembled in Pakistan
Spares are widely stocked locally and most technicians in the twin cities have worked on these, so common faults are usually economic to repair.
Metro builds locally, and the MR 70's mechanical parts come from the same 70-class pattern market that serves every commuter here, so servicing is never the difficulty. Metro's own items — panels, switchgear, clusters, and everything on the electric range including packs and chargers — go through its dealer and EV network instead.
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Checking a used Metro bikes, scooters & e-bike
These are specific to Metro. The general bikes, scooters & e-bikes checks apply too and are on the bikes, scooters & e-bikes page.
Look behind the headlamp
On the MR 70 the engine is common property, but the loom, switchgear, cluster and panels are Metro's own. Check the switch blocks, headlamp rim and instrument face match each other, and look behind the headlamp for taped splices where a part from another badge was made to fit.
Read the battery label
Metro's electric range spans lead-acid, graphene and lithium or LFP packs, and they are not interchangeable when one needs replacing. Read the label on the pack itself, because the model name will not tell you which chemistry is fitted.
Charge it and wait
Charge it fully, then come back the next day and see whether it has held. Where two packs are fitted, compare their date markings — a mismatched pair works the newer one harder, and the pack is the most expensive single item on an electric scooter.
Spin the hub motor
Lift the driven wheel, spin it and rock it side to side. A hub motor is a sealed unit with its bearings inside it, so noise or play is not the cheap bearing job it would be on a chain-driven bike.
What Metro bikes, scooters & e-bikes are worth
- An MR 70 wearing all its own bodywork, cluster and switchgear assesses above an identical one carrying parts from another badge, because those are the only items a buyer cannot simply pick up in the market.
- Metro's petrol side is cheap to keep running, so mechanical wear rarely decides the offer; missing or substituted brand-specific parts do.
- On an electric Metro the value follows the pack — its chemistry, its age and whether the original charger is present move the assessment more than the scooter's condition does.
Model lines you will see second-hand
- MR 70
- Miku Super
General bikes, scooters & e-bikes checks
These apply whatever the badge on the front says — the bikes, scooters & e-bikes page covers them in full.
Read the chassis and engine numbers
The chassis number is stamped on the frame near the steering head and the engine number on the crankcase. Both must match the registration book character for character. Numbers that have been filed, re-stamped, painted over or welded around stop the bike from being transferred, and that is the one fault which ends a sale on the spot.
Start it from cold yourself
Ask that the bike has not been run that morning. A sound 70 or 125 fires within a couple of kicks and settles to a steady idle without the choke being held open. A cloud of blue smoke at start-up means worn rings or valve stem seals, while a top-end rattle that fades as it warms is often valve clearance but can be the cam chain tensioner.
Lift the chain off the sprocket
At the three o'clock position on the rear sprocket, pull the chain away from the teeth. If it lifts far enough to show daylight, chain and sprockets are finished as a set. Look at the teeth too: hooked, pointed profiles mean the set ran long past its life, and a worn chain left over-tight also wears the gearbox output shaft.
Bounce the front end and brake
Squeeze the front brake and push the bike forward. The forks should compress and return smoothly with no clunk, and the stanchions should be dry, since oil on a fork leg means the seal has gone. Check the wear indicator arrow on drum brakes, and roll the bike slowly to listen for a rumble from the wheel bearings.
Trace the wiring and try the self-start
Look for taped joints, extra wires run for horns and lights, and a battery box crammed with connections. A hacked loom sits behind most charging and lighting faults on these bikes. Try the self-start with the headlight on: a slow crank is often just the battery, but a bike that only ever starts on the kick has usually been living with a charging fault.
Load the battery on an electric bike
Note the pack voltage shown on the display when parked and fully charged, then ride up a slope and watch it again. A pack that drops sharply under load and recovers once you stop is near the end of its life, and on an affordable e-bike the replacement pack is the single biggest cost of ownership. Confirm the original charger and both keys are included.
Metro bikes, scooters & e-bikes — questions
What should I check on a used Metro MR 70?
Is a used Metro electric scooter worth buying?
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