Used Mitsubishi air conditioners in Islamabad & Rawalpindi
Is a used Mitsubishi air conditioner worth buying?
Mitsubishi splits and window units on the local second-hand market are imported, usually as used stock rather than through a formal channel. The build is a genuine step up and older units often still cool well, but every non-generic part is an import, and two separate companies use the name, which complicates ordering more than most buyers expect.
Imported
Parts usually have to be imported or sourced from the grey market, so a repair takes longer and costs more — which matters more on an older unit than the build quality does.
There is no broad Mitsubishi air-conditioning service network in Islamabad or Rawalpindi; work is done by independent technicians and non-generic parts are imported to order. Anyone quoting a repair needs the full company name and the model number from the rating plate first.
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Checking a used Mitsubishi air conditioner
These are specific to Mitsubishi. The general air conditioners checks apply too and are on the air conditioners page.
Establish which Mitsubishi
Mitsubishi Electric and Mitsubishi Heavy Industries are different companies. Their handsets, boards and indoor assemblies are not interchangeable, so the full company name on the rating plate is the first thing to read and record.
Check the supply voltage
Some imported Japanese-market units are built for a 100-volt supply and need a transformer here. The rating plate states the design voltage; a unit running through a transformer works, but that adds a failure point and a standing load.
Confirm the remote is original
Mitsubishi indoor units accept a narrow set of remote codes, and a cheap universal handset will often start the machine but not reach fan or swing settings. On an import, a missing original remote is a real cost rather than a minor one.
Ask about the refrigerant
Older imported units may still be charged with R22, which is being phased down globally and is progressively harder and dearer to obtain. Read the gas type off the rating plate before assuming a top-up is routine.
What Mitsubishi air conditioners are worth
- Build quality supports value on units that are complete and working; the same machine with an electrical fault drops hard, because the board is an import.
- R22 units sit below equivalent R410A ones, because the gas is being phased down and re-gassing becomes progressively more awkward.
- A unit needing a transformer for 100-volt operation is worth less than a 220-volt one of the same age, since the transformer is another thing to buy, house and eventually replace.
Model lines you will see second-hand
- Mr. Slim (Mitsubishi Electric)
- SRK series (Mitsubishi Heavy Industries)
General air conditioners checks
These apply whatever the badge on the front says — the air conditioners page covers them in full.
Measure the temperature split
Run the unit for fifteen minutes, then compare the air being drawn into the indoor grille with the air leaving the vent. A healthy split is obvious to the hand and clear on a thermometer. A narrow gap after a full cycle usually points at low refrigerant or a tired compressor, and both are expensive.
Watch the outdoor unit start
Stand at the outdoor unit as the compressor kicks in. It should start within a couple of minutes and settle into a steady hum. Starting and stopping every few minutes, or a hard mechanical knock at start-up, is a compressor or capacitor symptom rather than a quirk of the model.
Look for oil at joints
Refrigerant carries compressor oil, so a leak leaves a dark, oily film at the flare nuts and along the copper. A unit that cools today with oily joints will need gas again, and a refill without a leak repair does not hold for long.
Confirm inverter behaviour
An inverter compressor should slow down once the room reaches the set temperature instead of switching off outright. If the outdoor unit only ever runs flat out and then stops dead, either the unit is not the inverter model it is described as, or its control board has stopped modulating.
Check the drain runs clear
After the unit has been running a while, water should leave the drain pipe steadily and nowhere else. No water at all suggests a blocked line, and damp on the wall below the indoor unit means the condensate has found another route out, which shows up later as staining and mould.
Test the remote and supply
Cycle cooling, fan speed, swing and temperature, and confirm the unit obeys each command rather than merely lighting up the display. A missing remote is common and replaceable; a unit that responds to only some commands points at the control board. Ask what supply it was run on as well, since a split wants its own circuit and an isolator, and a stabiliser with scorched terminals says the voltage it lived with was rough.
Mitsubishi air conditioners — questions
Is an imported used Mitsubishi AC a good idea in Pakistan?
What is the difference between Mitsubishi Electric and Mitsubishi Heavy Industries ACs?
Other air conditioners brands
Selling one instead? We buy used Mitsubishi air conditioners for cash.